For many of us, Italy is sun-drenched piazzas, the gentle clink of wine glasses, and the slow, sweet rhythm of days that have unfolded the same way for centuries. It’s a romantic vision, but
But Italy, like any ancient place, is a palimpsest. Layers of beauty are written over layers of blood and iron.
For every peaceful vineyard, there is a castle whose stones remember siege and terror. This truth found me last week on one of my walks to the tiny, postcard-perfect village of Vettignè. I admired its charming castle, took a few photos, and thought of the quiet lives lived within those walls.
I had no idea I was standing in a place that had once stared into the eyes of the devil.
They called him The Devil, The Terrible. For years, he held all of Piedmont in a state of terror. His name was Facino Cane, a mercenary warlord whose story is a flash of tragedy, fury, and intrigue against the backdrop of the 14th century. He is Biella’s ghost, a character I’ve heard whispers of since I first arrived. Imagine: a character who, in the 21st century, is still remembered as a terror here.
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